How do you care for your rats?

Where did you get yours?


What type of cage do you use?


Do you keep them in pairs or groups?


Do you breed yours?


What type of food do you feed?


Both rats that I had had scabs on them, how can you avoid that?


What litter do you use?


Are yours litterbox trained-- can you litter box train them?


How can you keep them in their best?How do you care for your rats?
Wow, lots of questions! Right, let's do one at a time...





- Where did you get yours?


All my rats (7) have come from pet shops but were locally bred. Using pet shops can support mill breeders who over-breed and keep animals in poor conditions. If getting animals from a pet shop, check they come from a small local breeder. Independent breeders are always your best bet but can be hard to find and may have long waiting lists for animals. Hand-reared rats from independent breeders are usually in much better condition health-wise and mentally (they're tamer and happier). Small breeders concentrate more on health and temperament than quantity of babies to sell and so rats from them are likely to be far more healthy and social than pet shop rats.





- What type of cage do you use?


I have two wire cages attached one on top of the other making one big cage about 5'6'; tall. Large wire cages are best for rats because they have good air circulation, preventing build-up of ammonia (from the urine) which aggravates their sensitive respiratory systems. They also need lots of space to run around, climb and choose whether to be close to one another or not. Here are two cage calculators to help you work out how many rats you can fit in a cage: http://www.fancy-rats.co.uk/information/鈥?/a> http://health.ratzrus.co.uk/cagecalc/





- Do you keep them in pairs or groups?


I've always had girl rats. I originally started with 2. Then, when they were about a year old, I added two more. Later I lost the two older ones, then a while after being back down to 2, I added 3 more young girls. I intend to carry on in this way to avoid ever having one lonely rat. They really are so sociable it would be a shame to have a sad rat all on its own. Having said that, some rats (more often boys) prefer the company of humans to other rats and tend to injure cage mates, although I think it's quite rare.





- Do you breed yours?


No. It really isn't advisable to breed your pets, especially if you don't know their family history. In order to breed animals safely, you must have a good understanding of the species' genetics and knowledge and experience in looking after them in all stages of their lives. You must also choose appropriate animals to breed as certain genotypes cannot be mixed as there is high risk of extremely unhealthy young. And you cannot know (or estimate) the genotype unless you have a full family history for both potential parents. It is best to ask a known breeder to mentor you, first by letting you visit their breeding rats and helping / learning all about how to oversee the mating process, how to look after pregnant mothers and young litters, sexing babies, when to separate the young from the mother, common things which go wrong etc.





- What type of food do you feed?


I use a staple diet of store-bought rat mix (the ones with the interesting different bits in). They also get some fruit and/or vegetables every day, things like dry or cooked pasta, a bit of egg now and then and treats which include chocolate drops, yoghurt drops, nuts and small pieces of grated cheese. They can eat pretty much anything we can eat, and the same things which are good and bad for us are good and bad for them.





- How can you avoid scabby rats?


Scabs on rats usually indicate a parasite such as mites or lice. These can be picked up from the bedding. To avoid them, it is advised that the bedding is frozen for 2 weeks (I think) before you use it. Both lice and mites can be treated with an oral or injected anti-parasitic medication from the vet. You can also use an olive oil bath - completely cover the rats' fur in olive oil (avoiding eyes and nose) to smoother the bugs (most rats tend not to enjoy it though). Oily rats will clean themselves and one another, removing the dead bugs with the oil (or you can bath them in very mild animal shampoo a few days later).


Scabs can also be caused by nails being too long and sharp. To avoid this I use a fine nail file and give each nail a few gentle brushes with it every couple of weeks (you can often get all nails on one foot in the same stroke). You can clip rat's nails but I have never dared for fear of cutting off a toe! I use the nail file + lots of ';free range'; time method to keep nails blunted.





- What litter do you use?


I use a combination of rags (bit of any old clothes, sheets, tea towels etc) in the bottom of the cage and CareFresh in their litter box. Rags are cheap and re-useable because you can wash them and use them again and again until they get too rat-chewed.





- Are they litter trained?


More or less. You definitely can train rats to use a litter box. (Mine are currently a bit messy because I've just added 3 little ones and they haven't quite got the idea yet!) The best way to litter train is first to observe: watch where they prefer to go. You will often find all cage residents will use the same corner to poo in. (Training to wee in a litter box (I believe) is pretty impossible.) Once they've picked a clear corner, put a litter box there with some of the bedding they are used to having on the cage bottom in it along with some ratty raisins (poo). Change the actual floor covering so that there is a clear difference between the litter box area and the rest of the floor. Each time a rat drops their raisins outside the box, put them in the box, pick the rat up and put them in the box too. Because rats are pretty tidy, they tend understand the litter box concept pretty quickly. http://www.dapper.com.au/articles.htm#li鈥?/a>





- How can you keep them at their best?


Rats have pretty delicate respiratory systems so they need to be kept in an area away from drafts and the cold. They also need bedding which will not aggravate respiratory problems (both pine and cedar do this) such as CareFresh, aspen wood chips or cloth rags.


Find a rat friendly vet! Despite their reputation of being hardy, rats can get ill quite easily in later life. Females commonly get tumours and all can get pneumonia. Rats carry mycoplasma, which causes mycoplasmosis. It is a chronic condition which all rats have as it is passed from mother to infant at birth. Most rats can cope with the infection and keep it under control. However, if the immune system is comprised due to stress or another infection, the mycoplasmosis can ';flare up'; and commonly produce respiratory symptoms. http://ratguide.com/health/bacteria/myco鈥?/a> A vet knowledgeable about rats and their ailments really is important in order for you to provide the best care for your rats.


Lots of play time and interesting things to do are also important. Rats are very intelligent and need challenging toys and areas outside the cage for them to explore and get exercise. http://www.dapper.com.au/articles.htm#fr鈥?/a> http://www.dapper.com.au/toys.htm





Phew! Well done for asking so many questions before bringing new rats home. If there's anything else I can help you with please email me. I'd also advise you to join the Ratlist which I've referenced below. The 2000 members can help answer any ratty related question!How do you care for your rats?
CongRATS on getting *best answer* HanRatty. Good info :)


See also Kiffie's answer.





spazrats


http://spazrats.tripod.com

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Adopted mine from my school,it's an agricultural school and has a small animal breeding program for education of the students, and they either keep or adopt out the animals,usually to students like me =).I would say,though,most people should get them from classified ads or breeders.Or a friend of a friend,stuff like that.I wouldn't go for pet stores.


I had a wire cage.


I kept them in a pair.


I didn't breed them.


I fed kaytee commercial rat food,supplemented with those hard treats you buy from the pet store that keep their teeth healthy and have extra nutrients,etc.I also gave them plenty of fruits and veggies.


Um...it may have been a skin condition caused by a diet deficiency...


I used shavings.


They weren't litter box trained,but I'm sure you could do it.They're pretty smart.


To keep them healthy,give them regular exercise,stimulate their brains with toys and play time,check them over daily for scratches or lumps(Older rats can be prone to tumors and stuff like that),give them fruits and veggies as well as commercial food,give them something hard to gnaw on to keep their teeth from getting too long,I've heard that putting some orange juice in their water bottles gives them a good calcium boost,but if you do that the water has to be changed within 6 hours of you puttin the juice in...Um...Change their cage litter at least twice a month,and that's all I can think of.
1)Where did you get yours?


All my rats have come from a pet shop. I know the owner and she has given me quite a few rats, including one that was dumped outside in a battered cage in the rain. The ones I've bought from the pet shop have come from a family breeder and have been very friendly. I feel confident buying from that shop as not only do I know the owner and staff, but I've also met the breeder a few times.


2)What type of cage do you use?


I currently have 3 cages, a Ferplast Furet XL, a SuperPet X-Large Deluxe My First Home and a smaller cage suitable for 2 rats. I am waiting for delivery of a Ferplast Brio Medium


3Do you keep them in pairs or groups?


I mainly keep them in groups as they love company of other rats plus I love watching them interact and sleep bundled up together. At the moment I have 3 groups, one with 4 older boys in it, one with 4 almost teens and one neutered girl(same age as boys) and one pair of boys a few weeks younger than the group of 5. Once I get my new cage there will be two groups, the old boys and the 7 younger ones.


4)Do you breed yours?


No, I did plan on breeding one of my previous girls, but changed my mind because I would be able to rehome the babies.


5)What type of food do you feed?


I feed my own mix of cereals, pasta, dog biscuits and rat food. I also feed fresh fruit and veg most days and tuna past bake once a week and they get leftovers of my meals if its suitable.


6)Both rats that I had had scabs on them, how can you avoid that?


I've got two scabby rats at the moment that are healing. It was due to one of the rats nails being too long and when they slept together or had any contact, he would break the others skin. I did have bricks in the cage to file their nails, but this particular rat was too light to have any effect. I use pet antibiotic powder every other day on the scabby rats to prevent infection and so far its worked. The best way to keep rat nails trimmed is to use pet nail clippers if they let you or put a brick in their cage, by the door or under the water bottle is best.


If the rat is scratching a lot, it is probably mites or lice. The best way of getting that treated is with stuff from the vets, anything over the counter isnt strong enough.


7)What litter do you use?


I use Bob Martins Recyled Paper Based Cat Litter. I also use newspaper and shredded paper.


8)Are yours litterbox trained-- can you litter box train them?


I was lucky and the younger seven started using the litter box without any training. I gave up with my old boys, they are just too lazy.


9)How can you keep them in their best?


Feed them a good quality dry mix and organic fruit and veg. No bad foods. Food makes a huge difference to their health. Since I changed my rats diet(making my own mix and giving them organic fruit/veg) they live over 12 months longer than they did, they also have no breathing problems or any other illnesses. Clean their cage once a week, spot clean the litter tray daily. Give them the biggest cage you can afford, not a tank(rats wee more than other rodents and the ammonia in their wee builds up quickly in tanks and causes breathing problems). Give them plenty of free range time, as much as you possibly can.
i got mine at the pet store,a tank with a cover, groups,yes i breed them,hampster food and lettuce and carrots and fruits, mine are not trained, but they can be.
1) I always got mine from a pet store or from a reputable breeder. But, the ones from the pet store always seemed to be sick with respiratory problems.


2) I use a large wire cage with opening.


3) I never kept more than 2 in a cage, and always of the same sex. I didn't want babies.


4) No, never bred them, it's a hassle.


5) I fed them pellets supplemented with vegetables, fruits.


6) I've only seen scabs on rats that have problems scratching, maybe due to bugs on the skin?


7) I didn't use litter, because rats' lungs are very sensitive, I've always used torn newspaper. They love to hide in it, and it's very easy to change.


8) Rats will only use the bathroom in a familiar area, usually within their cage. I never had to train mine, they trained themselves. Whenever you allow them to run around and play, make sure that their cage is within easy access with the gate open, so that they may return and use the bathroom.


9) Make sure to clean their cages at least 3 times a week, rats urinate ammonia, and if left in the cage too long it can cause severe respiratory problems. Allow them room to explore your house, maybe a closed off room. They love to ride on your shoulder. Rats are nocturnal, so, while you're sleeping, they'll be up playing.





You chose great pets, i wish you success with them!!
I got my rats at Petsmart.


I use a wire cage with only about 1in. between the wires make sure they have high trays otherwise they push their poop out on to ground.


I keep mine[10] in groups of 5 or less.


I do not breed because there is a surplus of rats in the world.


I feed my rats FORTI-DIET in the little pellets because with the seed they pick and choose what they eat and lack nutrition.


Keeping the cage clean and dry to prevent scabs.


I use recycled paper, don't use pine shavings it is poisonous.


Mine r not trained but they go in one specific corner of the cage u could litter box train them.


Just keep their cage clean make sure u have at least 2 in the same cage an keep their food up high or else other pets will eat it and get sick.